Troubleshooting guide
Brown Algae and Diatoms
Diatoms are microscopic photosynthetic organisms with silica-containing cell walls. In aquariums, many species form a removable brown biofilm commonly called brown algae, although they are distinct from true brown seaweeds.
Identity
- Type
- Algae-like microbial growth and aquarium maturation issue.
- Also Known As
- brown diatom algae, diatom bloom, silica algae
- Found In
- Common in freshwater, planted, saltwater fish-only, reef, brackish, and newly established systems. Full details
- Typical Concern
- Usually low; investigate persistent growth, smothering coverage or accompanying livestock stress. Full details
Quick Reference
- What It Looks Like
- A tan, rust, golden-brown, or dark-brown dusty coating develops on glass, sand, rock, decor, plant leaves, or equipment and usually wipes, siphons, or blows away easily.
- Most Likely Causes
- Often associated with new-system maturation; a brown coating alone does not prove excess silicate, unsafe tap water or a need for special media.Full details
- Other Plausible Causes
- Silicate in source water, substrate, rock, or salt mix; excess organics/nutrients; inadequate maintenance; weak competition; poor source-water treatment; or lighting that favors the observed community.
- Immediate Risk
- Usually cosmetic. Thick growth may shade leaves/corals, trap detritus, reduce visual inspection, or signal broader nutrient, source-water, cycling, or maintenance issues.
- First Checks
- Confirm that the coating is dusty and easily removed; test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, pH, temperature, and salinity where relevant; review tank age, source water, silicate, feeding, lighting, and filtration.
- Safest First Action
- Gently wipe glass, siphon loose film during a normal water change, remove trapped waste, keep parameters stable, and allow a new system time to mature while tracking recurrence.
- What Not to Do
- Do not drain or sterilize the tank, perform a prolonged blackout by default, add algaecide blindly, chase zero nutrients, replace all media, or buy livestock solely to solve a temporary bloom.
- When to Get Help
- Consult an aquarium professional when the identity is uncertain, the bloom persists despite stable husbandry, or source-water treatment needs assessment. Seek veterinary help for sick livestock rather than assuming the film caused illness.
Overview
What It Is: Diatoms are microscopic photosynthetic organisms with silica-containing cell walls. In aquariums, many species form a removable brown biofilm commonly called brown algae, although they are distinct from true brown seaweeds.
Why It Matters: Correct identification prevents unnecessary treatment. New-system brown films may decline as conditions change; persistent films warrant review of identity, waste, source water and equipment rather than automatic attribution to excess silicate.
When It May Be Normal or Temporary: A light brown dust during the first weeks or months of a new setup is often a normal succession stage, especially on new sand, rock, glass, and equipment.
When It Indicates a Real Problem: It warrants investigation when it returns thickly after repeated removal, coats established systems, shades plants/corals, coincides with poor water tests, or has slimy strings, bubbles, mats, odor, or daily disappearance inconsistent with typical diatoms.
Aquarium Types Where It Commonly Appears: New aquariums, newly rescaped tanks, reef “ugly stage” systems, low-competition planted tanks, setups using silicate-rich water or materials, and tanks after major cleaning or filtration changes.
Livestock or Systems Most at Risk: Newly established systems, delicate coral frags, slow-growing or shaded plants, small tanks, systems using untreated high-silicate source water, and aquariums with accumulating waste.
Where It Occurs
common in freshwater, planted, saltwater fish-only, reef, brackish, and newly established systems.
What Can Be Affected
Usually coats glass, substrate, rock, decor, equipment, and slow-growing plant leaves. Heavy coverage can shade plants or corals but is generally more unsightly than directly toxic.
When to Act
Usually low. Moderate when persistent, rapidly recurring, smothering delicate organisms, or accompanied by ammonia, nitrite, low oxygen, coral stress, or livestock distress.
Why It Matters
A brown film is common during early aquarium maturation and is often misidentified as dangerous algae or treated more aggressively than necessary.
Signs & Identification
Visible Signs: Fine brown dust or soft film; uniform coating on lit surfaces; brown sand; leaves that look dirty; glass that cleans easily; rapid but usually gradual reappearance.
Livestock Behavior Signs: Fish are usually unaffected. Some snails, shrimp, copepods, and grazing fish may eat the film. Gasping, flashing, collapse, or appetite loss suggests a separate or accompanying problem.
Water-Test or Instrument Findings: Silicate may be measurable, but a low reading does not exclude active uptake. Nitrate/phosphate may be normal or elevated. Ammonia/nitrite in a new tank indicates a cycling problem requiring separate attention.
Equipment or Flow Findings: Film often settles on low-disturbance surfaces. Dirty mechanical media, dead spots, weak circulation, exhausted RO/DI resin, or source-water breakthrough may contribute to persistence.
Odor, Texture, Color, Location, or Pattern: Typical diatoms are tan to brown, powdery or velvety, and easy to wipe. Slimy sheets, long strings, bubbles, strong odor, or tough attached tufts point toward other organisms.
Typical Onset and Progression: Often appears after initial setup as surfaces become colonized, expands for days or weeks, and declines with maturation and routine removal. Continued inputs can make it recur indefinitely.
How to Confirm the Problem: Combine appearance, easy removal, tank age, recurrence pattern, and microscopy when certainty matters. A microscope can distinguish diatoms by their structured silica frustules from cyanobacteria, dinoflagellates, and debris.
What Cannot Be Confirmed Visually: Color alone cannot prove diatoms, identify species, measure silicate, establish the nutrient source, or rule out dinoflagellates, cyanobacteria, chrysophytes, detritus, or true brown macroalgae.
Similar Problems / Differential Identification
Commonly Confused With: Dinoflagellates; cyanobacteria; detritus/mulm; tannin staining; chrysophytes; brown hair algae; dead green algae; and true brown seaweed in marine systems.
How Similar Problem 1 Differs: Problematic dinoflagellates are often slimy or snot-like, may form strings and bubbles, and can change strongly between day and night. Identification can require microscopy.
How Similar Problem 2 Differs: Cyanobacteria commonly forms cohesive, peelable, slimy sheets and may have a distinctive odor. Diatoms more often behave like loose dust that wipes or siphons away.
Tests or Observations That Distinguish Them: Check texture, attachment, bubbles, strings, odor, daily cycle, tank age, microscope appearance, and water trends. Photograph the same area morning and evening before treatment.
Information Needed Before Recommending Treatment: Tank age/type/volume, photos, texture, surfaces affected, daily pattern, ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/phosphate/pH/temperature/salinity, source water, silicate if tested, lighting, feeding, maintenance, filtration, and recent changes.
Urgency & Triage
Emergency Warning Signs: Fish gasping or collapsing; ammonia/nitrite; rapid coral tissue loss; widespread livestock distress; strong rotten odor; pump failure; or a bloom that appears slimy/bubbly and may not be diatoms.
Immediate Stabilization Steps: If livestock are distressed, prioritize water testing, aeration, filtration, and matched water changes. Otherwise use gentle mechanical removal and correct only verified husbandry or source-water problems.
Whether Feeding, Lighting, Dosing, or Equipment Should Be Paused: Avoid overfeeding and pause nonessential nutrient/silicate additives while investigating. Keep filtration, aeration, heat, and appropriate lighting stable; reduce excessive light only when measurements and livestock needs support it.
Whether Isolation or Quarantine Is Appropriate: Isolation is rarely useful because diatoms are environmental and widespread. Move livestock only for a separate health emergency or when a coral/plant is being physically smothered and a stable destination exists.
When Monitoring Is Safer Than Immediate Intervention: A light, easily removed coating in a new tank with safe water and healthy livestock is usually best managed with normal maintenance and observation rather than aggressive treatment.
Escalation Point: Escalate when growth remains heavy after maturation, rebounds within days despite removal, damages plants/corals, or cannot be confidently distinguished from dinoflagellates or cyanobacteria.
Causes & Contributing Factors
Primary Cause: Diatoms need light, silica and other nutrients and colonize submerged surfaces. Visible accumulation depends on the whole system; new-tank observations do not prove that microbial competition or grazing is the limiting factor in every case.
Other Common Causes: Investigate waste, light, film identity, filter function, maintenance and source-water measurements. Persistent growth may justify checking water-treatment performance or continued silicate input, but neither is proven by a brown coating and both depend on the actual system.
Water-Quality Factors: Silicate supports diatom frustules; nitrogen and phosphorus support growth. Stable ammonia/nitrite-free water, appropriate nitrate/phosphate, and good oxygen remain more important than forcing every nutrient to zero.
Biological or Pathogen Factors: Diatoms are primary producers, not fish pathogens. Biofilm grazers and a maturing microbial community may reduce visible accumulation, but introduced cleanup animals also add waste and have care needs.
Algae or Pest Factors: Other photosynthetic pests can occupy the same surfaces. Mixed blooms are possible, so one tank may contain diatoms together with green algae, cyanobacteria, or dinoflagellates.
Equipment or Flow Factors: Low-flow zones collect film and detritus; inadequate mechanical export allows particles to settle; worn RO/DI media may pass silicate; excessive flow can stress livestock without eliminating the cause.
Feeding, Stocking, or Husbandry Factors: Overfeeding, overstocking, decay, and adding grazers beyond the system’s capacity raise nutrient input. Underfeeding cleanup animals after the bloom fades can create a welfare problem.
Maintenance Factors: Irregular water changes, dirty prefilters, accumulated detritus, neglected source-water equipment, and failure to clean shaded leaves or substrate allow visible buildup.
Recent Changes That Can Trigger It: New tank, new sand/rock/decor, rescaping, large substrate disturbance, filter replacement, new salt mix or water source, exhausted RO/DI resin, lighting change, die-off, or increased feeding.
Environmental or Seasonal Factors: Seasonal source-water chemistry and well-water changes can alter silicate. Sunlight and room-light changes affect photosynthetic growth, while warmer water can change metabolism and oxygen demand.
Most Likely Causes: A removable brown coating is commonly reported during new-system maturation. Diatoms use silica as well as light and nutrients, but the coating alone does not prove excessive silicate, unsafe tap water or a need for special media.
Diagnostic Workflow
Questions to Ask About Recent History: How old is the tank? Is the film dusty or slimy? Does it disappear overnight? What water/materials were added? Are RO/DI readings and resin current? Did lighting, feeding, stocking, or maintenance change?
Step 1 - Immediate Visual Inspection: Photograph the film, note color/texture/attachment, wipe a small patch, check for strings/bubbles/odor, inspect shaded versus lit areas, and observe all livestock for distress.
Step 2 - Water Tests and Measurements: Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, pH, and temperature; include salinity and RO/DI conductivity/TDS for marine systems. Test silicate in tank and source water if persistent growth makes it relevant.
Step 3 - Equipment and Flow Checks: Inspect filter flow, mechanical media, dead spots, skimmer where used, RO/DI stages, resin age, light schedule/intensity, timers, and direct sunlight.
Step 4 - Livestock, Plant, or Coral Checks: Look for shaded or damaged leaves, coral tissue irritation, hungry or overstocked grazers, snail health, fish behavior, and decay that adds nutrients.
Step 5 - Narrowing the Cause: Confirm likely diatoms first; then separate a normal new-tank phase from persistent source-water silicate, excess waste, poor export, or a mixed/misidentified bloom.
Common Diagnostic Mistakes: Calling every brown coating diatoms, assuming silicate without testing source water, treating nitrate/phosphate as the only cause, buying grazers first, or using disappearance after cleaning as proof of a cure.
Correction & Management
Immediate Stabilization: Maintain safe, stable water and oxygen; remove loose film without disturbing the entire system; correct any ammonia, nitrite, decay, or equipment failure first.
Cause-Specific Correction: Allow a safe new system to mature while gently removing film, preserving biofiltration and correcting verified waste or equipment problems. For persistent growth, identify it and compare source/tank-water results and water-treatment performance before changing RO/DI or adding media. Silicate presence alone is not an indication for removal.
Recommended Order of Actions: 1) Identify texture/pattern. 2) check livestock. 3) test water. 4) wipe/siphon. 5) remove waste. 6) inspect light/flow/source water. 7) monitor recurrence. 8) make only cause-based changes.
Water-Change Guidance if Applicable: Use conditioned, temperature- and chemistry-matched changes for routine care and measured problems. Compare actual source/tank silicate results only if persistent identified diatoms justify it; source silicate alone does not prove changes worsen the bloom or justify wholesale water-source replacement.
Equipment or Filtration Changes: Improve mechanical capture and service filters without removing all biomedia. If testing identifies a continuing source-water issue, assess the relevant water-treatment stage. Use adsorption media only under its exact instructions and monitor both the intended substance and phosphate; media effects are product-specific.
Maintenance Changes: Wipe glass, siphon substrate surfaces, turkey-baste rock in marine tanks, prune badly covered dying leaves, clean prefilters, remove detritus, and keep a consistent schedule.
Livestock, Plant, or Coral Care: Gently clear film from plant leaves and coral-adjacent surfaces without scraping tissue. Feed existing grazers appropriately and choose any new grazer for long-term compatibility, not temporary cleanup alone.
Treatment or Medication Considerations if Applicable: Medication is not indicated. Algaecides, antibiotics, peroxide, blackout, and broad chemical treatments can injure livestock or biofiltration and should not replace identification and husbandry correction.
Expected Time to Improvement: Gentle cleaning improves visible film immediately, but recurrence and new-tank succession have no guaranteed endpoint. Follow the amount and texture of regrowth, livestock condition and test trends rather than expecting the film to end within a fixed number of weeks.
Signs the Correction Is Working: Film returns more slowly, covers less area, plants/corals remain clear, detritus decreases, source-water tests improve, and water parameters remain stable without aggressive intervention.
Signs the Problem Is Worsening: Thicker or daily recurrence, expansion into strings/mats/bubbles, smothered leaves or corals, rising nutrients or ammonia/nitrite, declining grazers, odor, or livestock distress.
What to Do if the First Correction Fails: Reconfirm identity with microscopy if possible, test source and tank water, audit RO/DI and materials, inspect nutrient inputs/export, and seek experienced aquarium help before adding chemicals.
Things Not To Do
Unsafe Shortcut: Using algaecide, antibiotics, peroxide, a long blackout, or large unverified doses of silicate/phosphate remover to make the brown film disappear quickly.
Why It Is Risky: These actions can stress fish, plants, corals, and invertebrates; reduce oxygen; destabilize biofiltration; strip needed nutrients; and hide a misidentification without correcting the cause.
Safer Alternative: Use gentle removal, stable husbandry, measured water/source-water testing, gradual equipment maintenance, and targeted correction only after the identity and continuing input are supported.
Products or Treatments Commonly Misused: Algaecides, antibiotics, peroxide, clarifiers, phosphate/silicate removers, activated carbon, UV sterilizers, blackout covers, bottled bacteria, and cleanup animals.
System-Specific Considerations
Freshwater Aquariums: Diatoms commonly dust glass, decor, and leaves in new tanks. Clean gently, maintain cycling and water quality, and avoid adding otocinclus or snails until the tank can support their long-term needs.
Planted Aquariums: Remove film carefully from leaves, improve plant health and stable nutrition, avoid zeroing nitrate/phosphate, and prune leaves that are already dying rather than damaging healthy tissue.
Saltwater Fish-Only Aquariums: Check source-water silicate, salt mix, new sand/rock, nutrients, and mechanical export. Stable salinity and gradual correction are more important than a spotless surface.
Reef Aquariums: A dusty brown new-tank phase is common, but strings and bubbles raise concern for dinoflagellates. Protect coral tissue, confirm RO/DI performance, and avoid indiscriminate nutrient stripping.
Nano Aquariums: Small systems change quickly and are easy to overstock with cleanup animals. Use precise maintenance, modest feeding, gentle siphoning, and correctly sized source-water treatment.
New Aquariums: Often a normal maturation phase. Confirm ammonia/nitrite safety, remove film during maintenance, and avoid resetting the tank through sterilization or wholesale media replacement.
Mature Aquariums: New persistent diatoms suggest a changed water source, exhausted RO/DI resin, new substrate/rock, nutrient/organic buildup, altered light, or misidentification.
Ponds or Outdoor Systems: Brown coatings may include many algae and sediments. Source water, suspended soil, depth, sunlight, season, and microscopy may be needed; aquarium assumptions may not transfer directly.
Safety & Sensitivities
Fish Safety: Typical diatoms are not a fish disease. Protect fish from unstable chemistry, algaecides, oxygen loss, and unsuitable newly purchased grazers.
Freshwater Invertebrate Safety: Shrimp and snails may graze diatoms but are sensitive to copper, algaecides, peroxide, salt, and abrupt changes. Add them only to a stable compatible system.
Coral and Saltwater Invertebrate Safety: Avoid blowing heavy debris directly onto coral tissue or stripping nutrients abruptly. Many reef invertebrates are sensitive to algaecides, metals, oxidizers, and salinity shifts.
Plant Safety: Rub leaves gently; do not scrub delicate tissue. Maintain adequate plant nutrition and light, and avoid broad treatments that damage plants more than the film.
Medication and Chemical Risks: Unnecessary chemicals can damage gills, biofilters, plants, corals, and invertebrates. Adsorption media may reduce phosphate as well as silicate and must be monitored.
Copper Sensitivity: Do not choose copper as a general brown-film remedy. Misidentified growth and formulation-dependent toxicity make it unsuitable as a blanket display treatment, especially with invertebrates. Identification and measured husbandry correction come first.
Electrical, Heat, Leak, or Pressure Risks: Use GFCI protection and drip loops, unplug equipment before cleaning near intakes/heaters, prevent dry-running pumps, and restart filtration and aeration promptly.
Human and Pet Safety: Wear gloves over cuts, wash hands, never mouth-siphon, keep chemicals and test reagents away from children/pets, and avoid aerosolizing dried aquarium residue.
Situations Requiring a Veterinarian, Laboratory Test, Electrician, or Other Specialist: Aquarium professional or microscopy for uncertain blooms; water laboratory for persistent source-water silicate questions; veterinarian for ill fish; electrician for shocks, overheating, or unsafe equipment.
Prevention
Routine Prevention: Use appropriate source water, cycle and mature systems patiently, avoid overfeeding/overstocking, maintain filtration, remove detritus, keep stable light, and monitor rather than repeatedly sterilizing surfaces.
Water-Testing Schedule: Test ammonia/nitrite frequently in new tanks and nitrate/phosphate on a consistent schedule. Test source water and silicate when recurrence or system type makes those results actionable.
Maintenance Practices: Perform consistent matched water changes, clean viewing panes and substrate surfaces, service mechanical filters, preserve biomedia, control detritus, and maintain RO/DI equipment.
Quarantine or Biosecurity Practices: Diatoms are not normally managed through livestock quarantine, but wet additions can carry other pests. Quarantine livestock and inspect plants/rock for broader biosecurity reasons.
Equipment Inspection: Check light timer/intensity, direct sunlight, circulation, prefilters, skimmer, biomedia, substrate traps, RO/DI pressure and TDS, resin age, and source-water storage cleanliness.
Early Warning Signs: A light tan dust on new surfaces, faster reappearance after cleaning, film on slow-growing leaves, declining RO/DI performance, or increasing detritus in low-flow areas.
Recurrence Prevention: Correct continuing silicate or waste inputs, keep equipment maintained, avoid large destabilizing cleanings, support healthy plant/coral competition, and confirm future brown blooms before treating.
Common Mistakes
Mistake 1: Adding a cleanup crew without considering adult size, diet after the bloom, compatibility, and the aquarium's biological capacity.
Why It Matters: Overstocking grazers can increase waste, create competition, and leave animals without enough appropriate food after the temporary film declines.
What to Do Instead: Choose only compatible animals the mature aquarium can support, and correct the environmental cause with testing and maintenance.
Mistake 2: Assuming every brown coating is a harmless diatom film without checking texture, behavior, and look-alikes.
Why It Matters: Color is not diagnostic; the wrong treatment may worsen a different bloom or destabilize a new aquarium.
What to Do Instead: Check texture and daily behavior, use microscopy when needed, and treat only after distinguishing diatoms from slimy or toxic look-alikes.
Sources & Evidence
Authoritative Source 1: University of California Museum of Paleontology, Berkeley - Introduction to Bacillariophyta (The Diatoms): https://ucmp.berkeley.edu/chromista/bacillariophyta.html. Scope: Diatoms are photosynthetic aquatic microorganisms with silica frustules in both freshwater and marine plankton/sediments. Limit: Biological identity/mechanism only; not aquarium media selection, nutrient target, grazer recommendation or a bloom-end timeline.
Authoritative Source 2: Aquasabi Aquascaping Wiki - Brown Algae (Diatoms): https://www.aquasabi.com/aquascaping-wiki_algae_brown-algae. Scope: Aquarium observations describe brown surface coatings in new systems, mechanical removal, silicate involvement and some grazing. Silicate-reduction media may also reduce phosphate and affect plant nutrition. Limit: Commercial freshwater experience; succession and grazer statements are qualified, not guarantees. Silicate presence alone is not proof of an excessive input or the limiting cause.
Authoritative Source 3: Seachem Laboratories - PhosGuard Product Directions: https://www.seachem.com/phosguard.php. Scope: This specific media's instructions require pre-wetting/rinsing, directed flow and testing phosphate or silicate; over-treatment is discouraged. Limit: Only this product; no dose, endpoint or endorsement is reproduced. Does not establish that all media behave identically or that every brown film needs chemical filtration.
Additional Sources: 2Hr Aquarist - How to Remove Brown Algae / Diatoms in a Planted Aquarium: https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/algae-control/how-to-remove-brown-algae-diatoms-planted-aquarium. Scope: Freshwater planted-tank observations emphasize maturation, plant health and nutrients/light rather than automatically blaming source-water silicate. Gentle removal and a stable tank before grazer additions are suggested. Limit: Alternative commercial explanation; not proof of specific microbial mechanisms, universal duration or a reason to transfer disease-risk media. Used to avoid treating brown films as proof RO/DI or resin is needed.
Areas Where Reliable Sources Disagree: Evidence scope: Biological identity/mechanism only; not aquarium media selection, nutrient target, grazer recommendation or a bloom-end timeline. Commercial freshwater experience; succession and grazer statements are qualified, not guarantees. Silicate presence alone is not proof of an excessive input or the limiting cause. Only this product; no dose, endpoint or endorsement is reproduced. Does not establish that all media behave identically or that every brown film needs chemical filtration. Alternative commercial explanation; not proof of specific microbial mechanisms, universal duration or a reason to transfer disease-risk media. Used to avoid treating brown films as proof RO/DI or resin is needed.
Claims That Require Owner Review: Identify the brown growth before intervention; do not infer unsafe source water or excessive silicate from color. Review source/tank tests and media only when actionable; monitor phosphate if relevant media is chosen. No fixed succession time, grazer guarantee or nutrient/lighting endpoint is prescribed.
Problem-Specific Information
Anything Important That Does Not Fit Above: A low silicate reading does not exclude active uptake; interpret it with the growth pattern and source-water history.
Fields That Were Not Applicable and Why: Disease and medication fields address safety only; diatoms are not contagious and usually need no medication.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are brown algae and diatoms the same thing?
In aquarium use, “brown algae” usually means diatoms. True brown algae are a different group of mostly marine multicellular organisms, so appearance and context still matter.
Will diatoms go away on their own?
Brown films are commonly reported in new aquariums and may decline as conditions change, but there is no guaranteed succession or end date. Persistent films warrant identification, safe manual removal and review of actual waste, source-water and equipment findings rather than automatic resin or chemical use.
Should I turn off the aquarium lights?
Usually not completely. Correct an excessive schedule or direct sunlight, but protect plant/coral needs and investigate source water, nutrients, maintenance, and identity first.
What animals eat diatoms?
Some snails, shrimp, copepods, and grazing fish consume soft diatom film, but suitability varies. Choose livestock for lifetime care and compatibility, not as a disposable treatment.
Sources and Further Reading
- Brown Algae (Diatoms) Aquasabi Aquascaping Wiki
- Introduction to Fish Health Management University of Florida IFAS Extension
- Use of Copper in Freshwater Aquaculture and Farm Ponds University of Florida IFAS Extension
- Ammonia in Aquatic Systems University of Florida IFAS Extension
- Introduction to the Phaeophyta University of California Museum of Paleontology, Berkeley
- Fish: Healthy Pets, Healthy People US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
- How to Remove Brown Algae / Diatoms in a Planted Aquarium 2Hr Aquarist
- Environmental Diseases of Aquatic Animals in Aquatic Systems Merck Veterinary Manual
- Green Water: Causes and Cures Aqueon
- Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (White Spot) Infections in Fish Roy P. E. Yanong; University of Florida IFAS Extension
- API ALGAEFIX Algae Control API Fishcare
- Dissolved Oxygen for Fish Production University of Florida IFAS Extension
- PhosGuard Product Directions Seachem Laboratories
- Introduction to Bacillariophyta (The Diatoms) University of California Museum of Paleontology, Berkeley
- Ultraviolet (UV) Radiation US Food and Drug Administration