Plant guide

Anubias Plant

Anubias barteri (with several commonly sold varieties and cultivars)

Anubias is a hardy, slow-growing aquarium plant known for thick leaves, broad water-parameter tolerance, and dependable growth in low-tech aquariums. It is normally attached to rock or driftwood with its rhizome exposed.

Quick Reference

Difficulty
Easy
Growth Rate
Slow
Maximum Size
About 4-20+ in (10-50+ cm), depending strongly on the variety or cultivar
Placement
Foreground, midground, or background depending on variety; usually attached to hardscape
Lighting
Low to moderate
CO2 Requirement
Not required
Temperature
72-82°F (22-28°C)
pH
6.0-8.0
GH
Approximately 3-15 dGH; broadly tolerant when conditions are stable
KH
Approximately 2-12 dKH
Substrate Requirement
None; do not bury the rhizome
Nutrient Demand
Low
Propagation Difficulty
Easy
Beginner Friendly
Yes

Key Takeaways

  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Placement: Foreground, midground, or background depending on variety; usually attached to hardscape
  • Beginner friendly: Yes

Natural Habitat

Native Distribution: Anubias species occur across tropical West and Central Africa; Anubias barteri is associated with countries in that region, including Cameroon, Nigeria, and neighboring areas.

Natural Habitat: Shaded streams, river margins, forest waterways, marshy banks, and seasonally flooded areas, often attached to rocks, roots, or wood.

Natural Water Conditions: Humid tropical environments with shaded, flowing or slow-moving water and seasonal changes in water level.

Natural Substrate: Commonly anchored to stone, wood, roots, or firm stream margins rather than buried deeply in sediment.

Other Habitat Notes: Anubias can grow submerged or emersed in humid conditions and may produce a characteristic aroid flower above or below the water surface.

Aquarium Placement

Foreground/Midground/Background/Floating: Compact varieties such as nana or petite suit the foreground; medium forms suit the midground; large barteri forms can be used in the background. It is not a floating plant.

Space Requirements: Choose the variety according to tank size and leave room for the rhizome to extend and the leaves to spread without crowding neighboring plants.

Planting Method: Tie, glue with aquarium-safe cyanoacrylate gel, or wedge the rhizome onto hardscape. Roots may enter the substrate, but the rhizome must remain exposed.

Attachment Requirements: Secure the rhizome gently until the roots naturally grip the chosen surface; avoid tightly constricting or damaging it.

Suitable Hardscape: Driftwood, aquarium-safe rock, porous stone, textured decorations, and shaded crevices.

Aquascaping Uses: Adds durable broadleaf texture, softens hardscape edges, creates shaded focal points, and provides scale in both nano and large aquariums when the correct variety is selected.

Other Placement Notes: Place it away from the strongest light when possible because slow-growing leaves can collect algae under excessive illumination.

Lighting

Light Requirement: Low to moderate

Recommended Intensity: Roughly 10-30 PAR at plant level is usually adequate; exact needs vary with depth, variety, and photoperiod.

Photoperiod Considerations: Start with about 6-8 hours daily and increase only when plant growth and algae levels remain balanced.

Low-Light Suitability: Excellent; Anubias remains one of the most reliable choices for shaded and low-tech aquariums.

Signs of Insufficient Light: Extremely slow growth, unusually long leaf stalks, small new leaves, or gradual loss of older leaves under severely poor conditions.

Signs of Excessive Light: Green spot algae, black beard algae, hair algae, pale patches, or persistent fouling of older leaves.

Substrate & Nutrition

Root Feeder/Water Column Feeder: Primarily a water-column feeder; roots serve mainly as anchors but may also absorb nutrients from debris or substrate contact.

Preferred Substrate: No special substrate is required because the rhizome should remain above it and is commonly attached to hardscape.

Root Tabs: Usually unnecessary; they may offer limited benefit when established roots extend into an inert substrate.

Liquid Fertilizer: A lightly dosed complete liquid fertilizer can support healthier foliage, especially in lightly stocked tanks.

Macro/Micronutrient Requirements: Low demand, but consistent access to nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, iron, and trace elements supports healthy new leaves.

Special Nutritional Requirements: None; avoid heavy fertilization and balance dosing with plant mass, livestock load, light, and water changes.

Water Parameters

Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)

pH: 6.0-8.0

GH: Approximately 3-15 dGH, with broad tolerance

KH: Approximately 2-12 dKH

Parameter Sensitivity: Low, though sudden temperature or chemistry changes can damage existing leaves and slow new growth.

Stability Requirements: Stable water chemistry, temperature, nutrients, and lighting are more important than achieving one exact target value.

Growth & Maintenance

Growth Rate: Slow; moderate light, balanced nutrients, warm stable conditions, and optional CO2 may improve the pace.

Maximum Height/Spread: Compact cultivars may stay near 2-6 in (5-15 cm), while larger Anubias barteri forms can reach roughly 12-20+ in (30-50+ cm) and develop a broad spread.

Trimming Method: Cut old, damaged, or algae-covered leaf stalks close to the rhizome with clean scissors; do not cut into the rhizome unless dividing it.

Trimming Frequency: Infrequent; remove leaves only as needed because replacement growth is slow.

Replanting: Divide a long, healthy rhizome into sections with several leaves and roots, then attach each section to separate hardscape.

Thinning: Remove older leaves or divide crowded rhizome sections when the plant becomes too dense for the intended layout.

Special Maintenance: Keep the rhizome exposed, remove trapped debris, maintain gentle circulation, and control algae before it covers older leaves.

Propagation

Propagation Method: Rhizome division; occasional side shoots can also be separated after they develop adequate roots and leaves.

Difficulty: Easy

Steps/Behavior: Cut a healthy rhizome between growth points so each piece retains several leaves and roots, then attach the divisions to rock or wood with the rhizomes uncovered.

Special Requirements: Use clean tools, avoid damaging the growth tip, and do not bury newly divided rhizomes.

Compatibility

Fish Compatibility: Suitable for most peaceful community fish, bettas, gouramis, rasboras, tetras, catfish, goldfish setups with caution, and many cichlid aquariums.

Invertebrate Compatibility: Safe with freshwater shrimp and snails; broad leaves provide grazing surfaces and cover.

Fish That May Damage It: Large herbivorous fish may chew leaves, while powerful or territorial fish can dislodge plants that are not firmly attached.

Plant-Safe Herbivores: Otocinclus, bristlenose plecos, many freshwater shrimp, and common aquarium snails generally graze algae without seriously damaging healthy leaves.

Other Compatibility Notes: Tough foliage and hardscape attachment make Anubias useful with digging or moderately rough fish, but very large herbivores can still damage it.

Common Problems

Melting: Newly introduced plants may lose older emersed-grown leaves while adapting, but severe whole-rhizome decline usually indicates rot or major stress.

Yellowing: Common causes include aging foliage, nutrient shortage, unstable conditions, poor rhizome health, or prolonged stress.

Holes/Damage: Pinholes, tears, or necrotic areas may result from potassium or other nutrient deficiencies, physical injury, grazing, or natural aging.

Algae Susceptibility: Moderate to high on older leaves because growth is slow; green spot, black beard, and hair algae are common problems under excessive light or imbalance.

Nutrient Deficiencies: Pale or yellow new leaves, pinholes, translucent patches, and stalled growth may develop when macro- or micronutrients remain unavailable.

Other Common Problems: Rhizome rot, loose attachment, damaged growth tips, undersized new leaves, and leaves covered with stubborn algae.

Likely Causes: A buried or damaged rhizome, excessive light, unstable CO2, nutrient imbalance, accumulated debris, poor circulation, or abrupt environmental changes.

Solutions: Uncover and inspect the rhizome, remove soft decaying portions, reduce excessive light, stabilize care, dose nutrients conservatively, improve gentle circulation, and trim badly affected leaves.

Beginner Suitability

Beginner Friendly: Yes

Why: Anubias tolerates low light and varied water conditions, does not require enriched substrate or injected CO2, and needs very little trimming.

Common Beginner Mistakes: Burying the rhizome, selecting a variety too large for the tank, using excessive light, overfertilizing, or expecting rapid growth.

Before You Buy

Important Considerations: Confirm the exact variety and expected mature size, select a plant with a firm green rhizome, and plan a shaded attachment point rather than burying it.

Expected Growth: Slow and steady, often producing only an occasional new leaf; allow several weeks or months for noticeable expansion.

Space Requirements: Vary widely by cultivar, from compact nano-aquarium plants to large specimens requiring substantial height and spread.

Equipment Requirements: Standard filtration, stable heating when needed, and low-to-moderate aquarium lighting; injected CO2 is optional.

Maintenance Requirements: Occasional removal of old leaves, algae control, light fertilizer as needed, debris removal, and periodic division of mature rhizomes.

Species-Specific Information

Anything important that does not fit above: 'Anubias' covers multiple species, varieties, and cultivars with very different mature sizes. This guide is anchored to the widely sold Anubias barteri group. Compact forms such as nana or petite should not be confused with full-size barteri varieties. Anubias may occasionally flower underwater or above the surface; flowering is normal and does not mean the plant is dying.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can Anubias be planted in gravel or sand?

The roots may grow into gravel or sand, but the thick horizontal rhizome must remain above the substrate. Attach or wedge the rhizome onto rock or driftwood instead of burying it.

Sources and Further Reading

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